Troubleshooting Wizard

Do the inside lights and display come on?

• Yes:

  Is the freezer cold (food frozen solid)?

  • Yes:

    Is there heavy frost on the back wall inside the freezer?

    • Yes:

      Likely defrost system failure. Frost is blocking airflow to the fridge. A technician should test the defrost heater, sensor and control. You can manually defrost for 24 hours as a temporary fix.

    • No:

      Is the vent between the freezer and fridge blocked by food?

      • Yes:

        Blocked airflow vent. Move food away from the vents and give it 12 to 24 hours. Call if the fridge does not recover.

      • No:

        Possible failed evaporator fan or air damper. Cold air is not reaching the fridge section. A technician should check the evaporator fan and damper.

  • No:

    Can you hear the compressor or fan running at the back bottom?

    • Yes:

      Are the condenser coils covered in dust or pet hair?

      • Yes:

        Dirty condenser coils. Unplug the fridge and vacuum the coils. Give it 24 hours. Call if it does not cool down.

      • No:

        Possible sealed system or fan problem. The system runs but is not cooling, which can point to a failed fan or a refrigerant issue. Call for diagnosis.

    • No:

      Compressor, start relay or control may not be running. Make sure the fridge is not in demo mode. If it still is silent and warm, call for service to test the start relay, compressor and control board.

• No:

  No power to the refrigerator. Check the plug, the outlet with a lamp, and the breaker or GFCI. If the outlet works and the fridge is still dead, call for service.

Refrigerator repair

Does the washer power on (lights or display)?

• Yes:

  Does it fill with water?

  • Yes:

    Does the water drain out at the end of the wash?

    • Yes:

      Does it spin?

      • Yes:

        Basic functions are working. If you still have a problem such as noise, leaks or odor, try the Symptom Checker or call us to describe it.

      • No:

        Does it spin with a small, evenly spread load?

        • Yes:

          Unbalanced loads. Wash bulky items with a few smaller items and make sure the washer is level.

        • No:

          Possible lid switch, door lock, belt, coupler or motor problem. Call for service to diagnose why the washer will not spin.

    • No:

      Have you cleaned the drain pump filter (or checked the drain hose on top-loaders)?

      • Yes:

        Likely failed drain pump. With a clean filter and clear hose, a pump that hums or stays silent usually needs replacing. Call for service.

      • No:

        Likely clogged drain filter or hose. Clean the drain pump filter and straighten the drain hose, then run a drain/spin cycle.

  • No:

    Are both faucets fully open and the hoses straight?

    • Yes:

      Possible clogged inlet screens or failed water inlet valve. Clean the screens where the hoses connect. If it still will not fill, the inlet valve or lid/door lock needs testing.

    • No:

      Water supply is restricted. Open both faucets fully and straighten the hoses, then try again.

• No:

  No power to the washer. Check the plug, breaker and any GFCI outlet. Call if the outlet works but the washer stays dead.

Washing Machine repair

Does the dryer power on?

• Yes:

  Does the drum turn when you press Start?

  • Yes:

    Does it heat?

    • Yes:

      Is the airflow at the outside vent strong while it runs?

      • Yes:

        Basic functions are working. If drying is still slow, the cycling thermostat or moisture sensor may need testing. Call us to describe it.

      • No:

        Restricted exhaust vent. Clean the lint screen and the full vent run. A clogged vent wastes energy and is a fire risk.

    • No:

      Is it gas, with the gas valve open?

      • Yes:

        Possible failed igniter or gas valve coils. Call for service. If you smell gas, leave and call the gas company.

      • No:

        Possible tripped breaker leg, failed heating element or thermal fuse. Reset both breakers. If it still will not heat, call for service.

  • No:

    Do you hear a hum when you press Start?

    • Yes:

      Possible broken belt, seized roller or motor problem. Stop trying to start it to avoid overheating the motor and call for service.

    • No:

      Possible door switch, thermal fuse or start switch failure. Make sure the door closes firmly. A blown thermal fuse is often caused by a clogged vent. Call for service.

• No:

  No power to the dryer. Check the plug and breakers. Electric dryers use a double breaker; reset it fully. Call if power is good but the dryer is dead.

Dryer repair

Does the dishwasher power on?

• Yes:

  Does it start a cycle when the door is latched?

  • Yes:

    Does water fill the bottom of the tub?

    • Yes:

      Does it drain completely at the end?

      • Yes:

        Are the dishes clean?

        • Yes:

          Basic functions are working. For leaks, odors or drying problems, try the Symptom Checker or call us.

        • No:

          Spray arms, water temperature or wash pump. Clean the spray arm holes and run hot water at the sink before starting. Call if results do not improve.

      • No:

        Have you cleaned the filter at the bottom of the tub?

        • Yes:

          Likely drain pump or drain hose problem. Call for service to check the drain pump and hose.

        • No:

          Clogged filter. Clean the filter and run a drain cycle. Also check the disposal and drain hose.

    • No:

      Water supply or inlet valve problem. Make sure the valve under the sink is open. If so, the inlet valve or float switch needs testing.

  • No:

    Door latch, control lock or delay start. Close the door firmly, turn off control lock and delay start. Call if it still will not start.

• No:

  No power. Check the breaker and any switch under the sink. Call if power is good but the unit is dead.

Dishwasher repair

Does the display or clock work?

• Yes:

  Is the oven gas?

  • Yes:

    When you set Bake, does the igniter glow?

    • Yes:

      Does the gas light within about 90 seconds of the glow?

      • Yes:

        Is the temperature accurate on an oven thermometer (within about 25 F)?

        • Yes:

          Basic functions are working. For broiler, door lock or self-clean issues, call us to describe the problem.

        • No:

          Temperature sensor or calibration issue. Small differences can be fixed with the calibration setting in your manual. Large swings need the sensor tested.

      • No:

        Likely weak igniter. A weak igniter glows but does not open the gas valve. It is a common, fairly inexpensive repair. Call for service.

    • No:

      Igniter, control or wiring problem. Call for service. Never try to light a gas oven by hand.

  • No:

    Does the bake element at the bottom glow red?

    • Yes:

      Is the temperature accurate on an oven thermometer (within about 25 F)?

      • Yes:

        Basic functions are working. For broiler, door lock or self-clean issues, call us to describe the problem.

      • No:

        Temperature sensor or calibration issue. Small differences can be fixed with the calibration setting in your manual. Large swings need the sensor tested.

    • No:

      Possible failed bake element or control. Look for a break or blister on the element. Call for replacement and testing.

• No:

  No power to the controls. Check the breaker. Gas ovens still need electricity. Call if power is good but the display is dead.

Oven repair

Does the display light up?

• Yes:

  Does it start running when you press Start?

  • Yes:

    Does a cup of water get hot after one minute?

    • Yes:

      Does the turntable turn?

      • Yes:

        Basic functions are working. For sparking, noise or a vent fan problem, try the Symptom Checker or call us.

      • No:

        Turntable not seated or motor failure. Reseat the tray and clean the roller ring. If it still will not turn, the motor needs replacing.

    • No:

      Possible failed magnetron, diode or capacitor. Do not open the cabinet. Call for service, or compare the repair cost with replacement for a low-cost countertop model.

  • No:

    Door switch or control problem. Make sure the door closes firmly and nothing is stuck in the latch. Call if it still will not start.

• No:

  Does the outlet work with another device?

  • Yes:

    Likely blown internal fuse or door switch failure. A blown fuse usually has a cause, often a door switch. Call for service; microwaves store dangerous high voltage.

  • No:

    No power at the outlet. Check the breaker or GFCI outlet.

Microwave repair